The stories a small town in the South holds are so curious. Stories full of wonder, history, and the people that call a place home. Columbus, Mississippi, built on the banks of the Tombigbee River, is the small town where I recently spent three days discovering people with so many stories to tell about their community. When I stopped by the local arts council gallery, I was greeted by three warm, inviting staff members who gave me a tour of the building and shared details about the latest show on display and how the local book festival uses the space. When I dined at the new Italian restaurant, which is so popular that it was already packed on a Wednesday at 4:30, my server from Colorado by way of California, who never had loving Mississippi on her bingo card, does in fact love it and was most definitely friendly, telling me the history of the restaurant and her favorite spots in town. I met a young college student, filming for his online class, across from Tennessee Williams’ boyhood home. We chatted about filmmaking, him growing up in Columbus, and why he chooses to stay in town rather than go off to school. I met a homeschooling parent who told me about the community she’s helped create in Columbus and a shopkeeper who told me about all the antique finds in his shop. I met neighbors on their porches whose homes I stopped to look at as part of the Southside Walking Tour, friendly, waving and greeting me with a “How’ya doin’?” or “Nice to see you,” when I’ve not actually seen them before. It was genuine and inviting. It was friendly and only added to my story in Columbus. Each person was weaving me a bit more into the fold of the town and helping me write my own story of exploring Columbus over three days.
While in Columbus, I was able to pack in nature hikes, history lessons, art galleries, a summer concert in the park, shopping, and of course, incredible eating. My visit started with a matcha at one of the several coffee shops in town, Coffee House on 5th. I was able to sit and enjoy my tea while I waited to check into my Airbnb, The Belle House, a Pre-Civil War fire station converted into several condos just behind City Hall, and just around the corner from the coffee shop. I couldn’t have asked for a better location to explore for the weekend.
After checking in, I dropped my bags and was quickly out the door again to stretch my legs with the Southside Historic District Walking Tour. I started at the boyhood home of Tennessee Williams, the playwright of such productions as A Streetcar Named Desire and Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. From there, I ventured into the side streets and neighborhoods embracing downtown Columbus, following the sidewalks to homes built in the styles of folk Victorian, Greek Revival, Prairie, Gothic, and Italianate architecture. Having worked up a sweat from the deep South summer heat, I headed back to The Belle House to get cleaned up for dinner at Amata. Just about 100 yards away from my Airbnb, I walked to dinner, where I had a delicious meal, trying a few things on the menu, like the pesto Burrata and the chicken parmesan. While I have a hard time not ordering chicken parmesan anytime I see it on the menu, it was the burrata appetizer that would have me coming back. It was perfect for sharing at the table, with fresh cherry tomatoes and vivid basil pesto engulfing the star of the plate: the burrata cheese. After eating, I needed an after-dinner walk. I opted to watch the sun go down on the Tombigbee River with a walk along the Columbus Riverwalk. I didn’t walk the full 4.4 miles, but enough to feel immersed in nature, steps from Main Street. Wrapping up my first day, I felt elated to be spending time in this charming town.
Waking early to start my day, I headed out to take some photos while I waited patiently for J. Broussard’s Bakery to open. This is one of those places that you’d certainly travel far to get a box of pastries, and with good reason. Since 2000, this family-run restaurant and bakery has been feeding and fueling customers on delectable seasonal danishes, donuts, cake, and breads. Two bites into a spinach-and-feta danish, and I quickly made a reservation for dinner the following night. Before leaving the block, I popped into the gift shop just next door, Saint & Scott, which is a well-curated home goods gift shop. You will easily find hostess gifts, something for Dads, bridal registry, or even something for yourself. It’s easy to shop local when you have so many beautiful choices. One more stop on the block: I picked up a tea from Gratia Artisanal Eatery. With big windows and a beautiful sofa to sink into, I’d love to return and sit and read in a spot like this corner coffee shop.
Heading back out to explore more of the town, I ventured over to Friendship Cemetery, a little-known spot in the history books, but deeply important. Founded in 1849 and thought to be the precursor to the modern-day Memorial Day we know today. After finishing my self-guided tour, I headed back to the Tennessee Williams home to tour inside. This free tour takes you through several rooms as it might have looked when the Williams family lived there when Tennessee was just a boy. The home doubles as the Columbus Welcome Center; I was able to pick up a few brochures for places I want to make sure to return for. I headed back to Amata for lunch before exploring all the art Columbus has to offer. I started at the Columbus Arts Council, holding down the fort for the town, prominently positioned in a corner building looking out over 5th and Main Street. With a rotating gallery of artists on display in a two-part gallery paired with a small gift shop filled with local and regional artists, it’s a great place to pick up a gift. Next, I headed to my grandmother’s alma mater, “The W,” as it’s affectionately referred to. Mississippi University for Women gives Columbus the distinction of a college town. I love to think about my grandmother here in Columbus, laughing with friends, walking to class, maybe even venturing into the same building as The Gallery at The W, my next stop. As a homeschool parent, this is exactly the type of gallery I would bring my son to, one where you can sit and study the art quietly. With a mix of local artists like Birney Imes and regionally based artists like Ashleigh Coleman, along with student art, it was exactly the art adventure I was looking for. Just next door to the main gallery, they incorporated something I feel like more galleries and museums should implement: a children’s gallery. Art by Walter Anderson and Maurice Sendak, among others, hung at a child’s level. So endearing, to create the love of art and museums at an early age.
As the day rolled on, I made my way to the local pizza joint, Munson and Brothers Trading Post. It’s the type of place every small town needs. A place for community, good food, and a collection of town characters. It’s a place where friends meet after work and families go out for dinner; it’s the community this small spot just off 5th Street draws. No one is in a hurry when surrounded by familiar faces and really good pizza. The Munsons slowly built their gathering spot, first buying the building for Ryan Munson to house and make his apothecary line, with space spilling into a place for Katherine Munson to host their homeschooling community. It eventually led to a walk-up beer window, which in turn led to a full-fledged restaurant and a selection of over twenty regional beers. I returned the next day for a child-led concert as the children of the famed Catfish Alley Studio music camp performed their original songs for a crowd of their friends and loved ones. I was charmed.
After dinner, I walked across the street to the soccer field complex for the Sounds of the Summer concert series. Children ran around together, flew kites, and ate snow cones while parents enjoyed classic covers from the band, mixing radio hits in with Mississippi Blues gems. As the sun began to set, the band wound down, slowing down the songs—the perfect transition for the day.
On my last day in Columbus, I ordered a tea at Coffee on 5th and then wandered around, poking my head into the shops along 5th and Main. I made sure to visit Friendly City Books, spending time browsing the new releases and titles by authors visiting for the August Possumtown Book Fest, picking up a few new books to read. I explored more homes on the Southside Historic Walking Tour and then returned to Amata for lunch to try the eggplant parmesan, one of their specialties. I had noticed a home by the soccer field complex and farmers’ market the night before, which had antiques spilling out onto the sidewalk from the detached garage that I wanted to visit, so I drove to see if I could find it open. Owner Fred Haley met me as I was walking up to unlock his shop. We chatted as I perused his wares, where two delicate, vintage tulip glasses changed hands, his finds becoming mine. We chatted about my days of working in a vintage shop in college and then the art of junking.
I was able to get an early reservation for dinner at J. Broussard’s, so I quickly got ready for dinner and headed over, just a few blocks away. Their seating system is so intriguing, with only two dining services, 6:00 or 7:30. When you arrive, Mary Broussard shows you to your seat, while her daughter, Chef Beth Broussard, meets you at your table, walks you through the menu, takes your order, and then retreats to cook your order. Mary is on hand to take your drink orders and check on you; truly a well-oiled team effort to make sure you are cared for. I ordered a sidecar cocktail, made with a house-made mix of fresh lemon and lime and cane sugar, bourbon, and Cointreau. I also ordered the arancini and Pecan Pané Catfish. The fish was flaky and nutty from the pecans without being heavy. The arancini were also delectable, with a cilantro chimichurri sauce to dip them in. It was so fresh and full-flavored. Classically, Mary greeted the table with a tray of the evening dessert options: a double chocolate cake, a banana bread pudding, or a peach galette with a scoop of vanilla ice cream. If you’ve ever had a fresh, local peach in a Southern summer, you know you must pick the peach dessert. The peaches, my favorite fruit, were so sweet and delicious, but the tart’s crust was honestly the showstopper. I’d drive the two hours from my home to have dinner here again.
Before hitting the road to head home, I woke early to head to the Farmer’s Market with an ingenious design—vendors backed up to a long stretch of a covered walkway, chalkboard signs hung overhead, alerting you to which vendor you are buying from and who you might be looking for, selling right from their vehicle or a table—no parking and lugging things in. Local produce and small-batch beauty products mixed with a child’s lemonade stand and some hand-knit goods lined the rows. A local musician played as townspeople stocked up for the week. I ran into some of the friendly people I’d met during my visit and chatted for a bit, like we were old friends, as I said, “See you later.”
